I mentioned a hat a while ago, didn't I? Well, long story short, I needed a hat and happened to have some fresh handspun just waiting to be used. For inspiration, I started with the Jacques Cousteau hat by Typy, but with different decreases. This the first time I've ever done anything with my own handspun, and I've worn it every day ever since finishing it!
Taisin joskus mainita, että tulossa olisi pipoasiaa? No, tässä sitä on - kuvina ainakin. Ensimmäinen kerta, kun käytin itse kehrättyä lankaa, ja tälle on ollut käyttöä! Inspiraationa omalle mallille oli Typyn Jacques Cousteau -pipo.
From the top:
From the side:
By itself, so you can see how stretchy it is:
Joustaa kivasti, kuten kuvasta näkyy:
I'm calling this a "pipa", which means a woolly hat or toque in the Finnish dialect from the town I'm living in. Finnish version will be posted, later, and separately due to length.
Tunnustan sen verran tamperelaisuutta, että annoin ohjeelle nimeksi "pipa"... Tällä hetkellä vain vieraalla kielellä, käännän kunhan ehdin. Ja toiseen postiin, kun tähän ei mahdu.
The Pipa hat
Needles: 3,5 mm (either 80 cm circulars or set of 5 dpns)
Yarn: ca. 97 m / 41 g of wool (Finnsheep), 2-ply, spun thick and thin with woolen long draw, ca. 12-13 wpi
Gauge: ca. 15 st, 30 rows / 10x10 cm over somewhat stretched k3, p3 ribbing
Finished circumference: 56 cm.
Left-leaning knit decreases:
sl, k1, psso: Slip one stitch as if to knit, knit one stitch and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
k2tog tbl: Knit two together through the back loop (i.e. slip two stitches as if to knit, return them to the left needle and knit together).
sl, k2tog, psso: Slip one stitch as if to knit, knit two together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Right-leaning knit decreases:
k2tog: Knit two together.
Left-leaning purl decreases:
p2tog: Purl two together.
p3tog: Purl three together.
Right-leaning purl decreases:
p2tog tbl: Purl two together through the back loop (i.e. slip two stitches as if to knit, return them to the left needle and purl together).
(m): stitch marker (optional)
...: Continue in the *k3, p3* pattern until you reach the specified stitches before the marker.
CO 84 st.
Join and begin knitting in the round in *k3, p3* ribbing, using either the Magic Loop technique or with stitches divided over 4 dpns.
Knit 16 cm ( 48 rows); If you want, place markers between the 4 repeats of 21 stitches at the last row.
Start decrease rows:
Row 1: *sl, k1, psso, k1, p3... k1, k2tog, (m), p2tog, p1, k3... p1, p2tog tbl*, repeat.
Rows 2-4: Knit (4 rows, 8 st decreased)
Row 5: *sl, k1, psso, p3... k2tog, (m), p2tog, k3... p2tog tbl*, repeat.
Rows 6-8: Knit (4 rows, 16 st decreased)
Row 9: *k2tog tbl, p3... p2tog, (m), k2tog, p3...k2tog tbl*, repeat.
Rows 10-12: Knit (4 rows, 24 st decreased)
Row 13: *p2tog, p1, k3... p1, p2tog tbl, (m), sl, k1, psso, k1, p3... k1, k2tog*, repeat.
Rows 14 and 15: Knit (3 rows, 32 st decreased)
Row 16: *p2tog, k3... p2tog tbl, (m), sl, k1, psso, p3... k2tog*, repeat.
Rows 17 and 18: Knit (3 rows, 40 st decreased)
Row 19: *k2tog, p3...k2tog tbl, (m), k2tog tbl, p3... p2tog*, repeat.
Row 20: Knit (2 rows, 48 st decreased)
Row 21: *sl, k1, psso, k1, p3... k1, k2tog, (m), p2tog, p1, k3... p1, p2tog tbl*, repeat. (56 st decreased)
Row 22: *sl, k1, psso, p3... k2tog, (m), p2tog, k3... p2tog tbl*, repeat. (64 st decreased)
Row 23: *k2tog tbl, p3... p2tog, k2tog, p3...k2tog tbl*, repeat. (72 st decreased)
Row 24: *sl, k2tog, psso, (m), p3tog*, repeat. (80 st decreased)
Cut thread, leave an end and draw it through the remaining 4 stitches. Weave in ends and immersion-block (wash) the finished hat to give the yarn a chance to bloom.
The decreases ensure that this hat will be fully reversible, as long as you are careful when weaving in your ends. If you don't like a turn-up at the brim, you can choose to knit only 14 or even 12 cm straight, and possibly start with 2-3 cm in k1, p1 ribbing. A longer turn-up is produced by knitting 18-20 cm straight before beginning the decreases. Larger or smaller sizes would be easiest to get by using yarn and needles to get larger or smaller gauge, but I think the principle of the decreases is clear enough that it's possible to adapt it to other stitch amounts.